Chinoise

Having finished to the last drop the bottle of Pei Po Koa, which, in its literature, indicates the medicine's ability to prevent ill effects of coughing in young and old, ensure the benefits of an undisturbed night's sleep, removes pimples caused by lung infections, prevents loss of voice in people whose voice is their livelihood, among other things, I had thought that I better replenish supply of this thick, brown, healing cure-all and thus found an excuse to go Chinatown yesterday, on the first day of the Year of the Rooster.

I admit that I'm not a strict follower of tradition as much as I'm very fascinated to watch other people practice theirs, and this is exactly what happened when, on the streets skirting Binondo in the heart of downtown Manila, we halted several times in bearable traffic to let pass a trail of menacing looking dragons dancing to a clash of cymbals, drums and fireworks set off by those whose doorway happens to be visited by them. In ritualistic negotiation, the visiteds end up appeasing the visitor with ang pao, these small red envelopes to fill with cash to send the dragon off to visit the next waiting neighbor. Quaint, colorful, and tricky for the giggling owners of the several pairs of feet skipping under the cloak of the monster in expert dance to welcome the Chinese new year.

Serendipity led us to the doorway of Ang Tunay Na Beef restaurant which, translated from Filipino means 'the real beef'. And it happened to be a very good choice for a whimsical lunch, as supping on the hot, aromatic, beef broth, spiced up yet made delicate by fresh, finely slivered ginger strands, was quite excellent and good for the soul, and unforgettable in its simplicity and clarity of taste.

We went into an apothecary, always a favorite destination for me, as i ogled on various roots, bulbs, powders, feet and claws, and would have lingered on longer had not my mon, this spoil-sport, stopped me from embarassing my really unembarassed husband as I elicited giggles from my brazen inquiry of the merits of this one atrocious looking bulb which I really wanted to purchase as a valentine's perk. Instead, I ended up buying efficascent White Flower oil and kiamoy powder, this pulverized dried plums preserved in salt, sugar, and licorice powder making it intensely sweet, sour and salty at once, and perfect for dipping indian mangoes, guavas, pomelos and green apples into.

Mom, who is this old shopping lover and really getting quite tired from all the walking, soon went on a buying spree from every stall and hawker whose wares interested me and my sister. At the end of the day, I had sugar kiatkiats, these tiny oranges whose sweetness does not duplicate any candy I have tasted, my purple yam flavored tikoy (also a staple over at Celia's in far away UK), this glutinous rice pudding to be slivered, dipped in egg, fried and coated with sugar, and essential for the new year. I also took home half a kilo of thinly sliced cured pork legs (wrapped in chinese newspaper), dates, an assortment of dried fruit, siopao buns, and many other little things that make a Chinatown outing worthwhile.

It was a relaxing day for me, making me wish to do a repeat with Mom again next year, as we have done in previous years. I realize I do practice certain traditions and I swear, the next time around, I'm picking out the most atrocious looking bulb there is to bring home.

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